相信大家的社交平台都被 THOM BROWNE 最新的 SPRING 23 FASHION SHOW 洗了版:一位男模特穿著粗毛呢背心和超低腰牛仔色 CHAPS 褲,整個屁股蛋暴露在外,只用標誌性的紅白藍 JOCKSTRAP 後空底褲掩蓋重要部位,腿邊的流蘇設計隨著男模招搖不羈的步姿擺動起來,這一幕奠定了整場騷的風格:戲劇性的張揚和叛逆。《THE KARATE KID》與成龍搭檔的童星演員 JADEN SMITH、名模 JACQUELYN JABLONSKI 等人皆現身出席這場華麗的視覺盛宴。
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JADEN SMITH
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JACQUELYN JABLONSKI
這場騷的開頭就注定不平靜:ANH DUONG、MARISA BERENSON、FARIDA KHELFA 等女模特兒穿著一身 THOM BROWNE SPRING 23 系列的粗毛呢格子套裝,帔著西裝外套出現,拿著邀請函慌慌張張地走進秀場,上演一場「FASHIONABLY LATE」的遲到表演,順便秀秀 2023 的女裝系列。觀眾摸不著頭腦,但看著她們手忙腳亂的樣子也娛樂味十足。
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MARISA BERENSON
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SASHA PIVOVAROVA
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DEBRA SHAW
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DREE HEMINGWAY
本秀場的兩大亮點莫過於吸眼的船錨元素和極低腰設計。模特兒頭上全都貼著船錨面具,直直地把龐克風格的尖頭造型一分為二,有趣的是船錨花紋和顏色還會隨造型發生變化,如果怕 CARRY 不起可以選擇印有船錨 LOGO 的 FLAT TOP HAT,更顯紳士。這海膽般龐克頭正正用了 ORIBE 的 SUPERFINE STRONG HAIR SPRAY,由髮根到髮尾都牢牢固定,難道預示了龐克文化的回歸?那「低處未算低」的低腰設計則跟上了最近的 Y2K 風潮,掛在胯下的迷你裙和短褲似乎是要和 MIU MIU 決一高下,不知誰勝誰負。
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這次系列函蓋各色各樣的法國製粗毛呢,由明亮的檸檬黃和淺藍色,到奢華的黑紅搭配,當然少不了品牌標誌性的灰色,由不同明度的灰構成的羊毛短褲套裝和蘇格蘭裙,傳遞出 THOM BROWNE 獨特的灰色美學。學院風的格子元素也從一層一層的西裝襯衫和外套體現出來,以粗毛呢的厚實質感塑造合身俐落的輪廊,而顛覆傳統西裝的露腳踝褲設計和豐富的下身變化,同樣秉乘品牌與眾不同的制服文化。
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“THE MOST IMPORTANT THING IS TO REALLY BE TRUE TO YOURSELF”, THOM BROWNE 也是毫不掩飾自己作為同性戀身份的自豪,剛巧正值 PRIDE MONTH, THOM BROWNE 繼續將女裝元素融入是次設計,模糊所謂的性別界限。 粗毛呢三點式、紅白藍 JOCKSTRAP 後空底褲、條紋迷你裙,還有文首提及的露股牛仔色 CHAPS 褲,穿在男模身上同樣誘人至極,象徵裸露肌膚的權利從不只限女性。MEN CAN ALSO BE SEXY.
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THOM BROWNE
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