RAF SIMONS 今季的設計靈感擷取自 FLEMISH 畫家 PIETER BRUEGHEL 於1559年所創作的繪畫《NETHERLANDISH PROVERBS》(又名THE BLUE CLOAK),一幅描繪了當時荷蘭流傳的諺語文化的油彩畫,它亦被視為是一幅刻畫人類荒謬愚蠢行徑,有著諷刺意味的藝術作品。
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《NETHERLANDISH PROVERBS》 PIETER BRUEGHEL , 1559
顯而易見,系列很多設計都能追溯到畫中人物的服飾,像開場那件與帽子大師 STEPHEN JONES 合作的連帽藍色斗篷設計,就能在畫裡面找到它的靈感來源,幾乎是以如出一轍的複製手法,放在了當下語境。於是在這一季,你會找到那些像古人長袍的皮革連身裙,還有遮蓋住面部,如同面罩一樣的有意思的帽飾,垂墜綢緞蝴蝶結設計的背包以及復古的低跟皮靴等等。系列的材質變化多樣,有馬海毛亦有乳膠和合成革,而色調亦融入亮眼的橙色和紫色。當中印花圖案的運用,也是特別典型屬於 RAF 的設計風格。從舊時代靈感變奏出現今世紀的前衛時裝風格,RAF 的眼光和品味的確是好,而且想法獨到,換作是其他人,就不是這個感覺了。
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RAF SIMONS 一直以來情有獨鍾的設計,OVERSIZED 剪裁西裝、大褸還有 BOMBER JACKET 亦在預期之中出現,輪廓很簡潔俐落,是一些他簽名式的設計。對於一位時裝設計師來說,設計有自己鮮明的個人偏好,並持續創造代表他自己的經典款,也是獲得成功的標誌吧。比起每季隨波逐流,大家還是更愛那些始終堅持自我的設計師,也難怪時裝圈有那麼多喜歡他、願意追隨他的人。
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