後現代時裝天才Iris van Herpen賦予高訂生命力，風起漣漪震撼眼前

當主流品牌打著高街時尚口號進軍業界，顛覆現實的鬼才設計師 Iris van Herpen 卻把自身未來主義變成另一股趨勢。現今世代下，她可謂少數忠於自我又同時不斷創新改革縹緲流動夢幻線條。冠上後現代的時裝「天才」之名，理所當然。

展開雙手擁抱著未來科幻感視野是 Iris van Herpen 標誌，正正是因為她對時尚與高訂工藝那份執著，市面上幾乎沒有人能夠成功倒模複製。這位時尚界建築師繼去年聯手藝術家Kim Keever打造出抽象派變幻造型，今次則在巴黎高級訂制時裝周上演超現實的飄逸靈動時裝秀。仍然是經典的 3D 打印技術與雷射切割科技，她今仗握手美國藝術家Anthony Howe再為時裝史上留下經典痕跡。

Iris van Herpen選以蒙馬特愛麗舍（L’Élysée Montmartre）作為時裝秀場地。環繞著今次主題「催眠」重現各程超想像的形態。回顧藝術家Anthony Howe的代表作3D動力學旋轉雕塑，作品以無限膨脹收縮的原理展現人類與自然萬物周而復始的關係，設計師聰明把這點延伸成催眠的氛圍。

 

View this post on Instagram

 

‘Hypnosis’ reflects the beauty and complexity of our environment, exploring the patterns and structures within its fragile landscape ∞ the ‘Hypnosis’ technique, developed in collaboration with Professor Philip Beesley involves ten of thousands of plottercut mini ripples that continuously dissect the dress through each movement of the body, revealing skin in between the whimsical spheroid patterns that are designed to move faster than the eye can follow. ∞ Show credits Special thanks to collaborating artist: @anthony.howe.art Collaborating artist: @philip.beesley Video by @blitzkickers Styling: @patti_wilson Music: @sssalvadorrr Model: @iamsabaah Casting: Maida Gregory Boina, @maximevalentini & @caromauger Make up: @silbruinsma1 & the @maccosmeticsfrance PRO Team Hair: @martincullen65 for @streetersldn Shoes by @unitednude Manicure: @jessicascholten_ Press: @karlaotto ∞ #irisvanherpen #hypnosiscouture #parisfashionweek

A post shared by Iris van Herpen Official (@irisvanherpen) on Jul 1, 2019 at 10:25am PDT

 

View this post on Instagram

 

Today Iris van Herpen presented her latest Couture collection for Autumn-Winter 2019/20, titled ʻHypnosisʼ, at Élysée Montmartre in Paris. Inspiration was found in the manifolds within our ecologies through the work of American artist Anthony Howe. The meditative movement of the spherical ‘Omniverse’ sculpture served as a portal for the collection and the models, encircling a state of hypnosis through the ‘Infinity’ dress. ∞ Show credits Special thanks to collaborating artist: @anthony.howe.art Collaborating artist: @philip.beesley Video by @blitzkickers Styling: @patti_wilson Music: @sssalvadorrr Model: @rebekkame Casting: Maida Gregory Boina, @maximevalentini & @caromauger Make up: @silbruinsma1 & the @maccosmeticsfrance PRO Team Hair: @martincullen65 for @streetersldn Shoes by @unitednude Manicure: @jessicascholten_ Press: @karlaotto ∞ #irisvanherpen #hypnosiscouture #parisfashionweek

A post shared by Iris van Herpen Official (@irisvanherpen) on Jul 1, 2019 at 6:56am PDT

回到高訂禮服，儘管我們看慣這位荷蘭時尚設計師遊走於真實與虛幻間的所有未來線條，但今秀最引人關注的是成衣設計上交織對稱輪廓線條都注入生命般活躍起來。特別時壓軸登場的（Infinity）連衣裙在繁複精巧的工藝技術下變成層層羽毛旋動。

每當我們談論起 Iris van Herpen 總不期然聯想起 Alexander Mcqueen，眾所周知 Iris 並不是時尚界的傳統名校畢業生。但與生俱來的設計天賦讓她一次又一次震憾時裝界。今秀命名為「催眠」系列共有19件作品，她把若隱若現的身體線條結合絲綢波紋編織技術，讓每件設計都能化作漣漪。原來衣服也能夠變成如泡沫般脆弱視覺藝術。McQueen離開了時尚界，慶幸我們仍然有後現代時裝天才Iris van Herpen繼承時裝高訂之意義。