01 Big Big Hats
設計師時不時會把身體比例把玩一番,以顯示(或只是純粹實驗、尋找)另一種美感。今季無獨有偶,大家似乎對大大頂帽情有獨鍾:先是 Emporio Armani 的 oversized bowler,緊接 Tod’s 幾乎有肩膀寬度、介乎牛仔與 escort hat 之間的造型,其後Undercover、Gareth Pugh、Vivienne Westwood 等齊齊以幾乎 surreal 的巨型帽子亮相,放大了的頭頂,反有一種奇異的優雅。
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Gareth Pugh── Autumn / Winter 2014 Fashion Week
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Vivienne Westwood── Autumn / Winter 2014 Fashion Week
02 Sneak Up!
高興,因為 easy chic 終於不只是空談而真的放在眼前。月前的 Haute Couture 台板上,Chanel與 Christian Dior一同將 sneakers 與 trainers 帶到天橋,今年秋冬季的各大騷場,不少人也選擇穿上波鞋配晚裝出席;而在 Chanel 最新的秋冬季系列,七十多套服裝全部配上運動鞋,彷彿在宣布波鞋正式登陸 high fashion 的時代來臨。以 Chanel 拿手的 tweed 布料製作成鞋面,加上亮麗色調,實在很難不讓人心花怒放。
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Chanel── Autumn / Winter 2014 Fashion Week
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Chanel── Autumn / Winter 2014 Fashion Week
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Chanel── Autumn / Winter 2014 Fashion Week
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Chanel── Autumn / Winter 2014 Fashion Week
03 Wearable Trunk
新將上場,久別了的 Nicolas Ghesquière 將前衞年輕風格融入百年品牌 Louis Vuitton 設計之中;服裝當然令人大感滿意,配飾設計中亦看到 Ghesquière 的細心和幽默,驚喜地將品牌標誌性行李箱化成精巧的手袋,有 monogram 款,也有於銀色盒形手袋外飾皮革包裝款式,叫人愛不釋手。
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Louis Vuitton── Autumn / Winter 2014 Fashion Week
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Louis Vuitton── Autumn / Winter 2014 Fashion Week
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Louis Vuitton── Autumn / Winter 2014 Fashion Week
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Louis Vuitton── Autumn / Winter 2014 Fashion Week
04 Passionate Red
今個時裝周沒半點寒冷感覺,除了因為天氣異常溫暖外,品牌更不約而同地在秋冬作品注入火紅色調,添上火熱的氣氛;Emilio Pucci 以紅色天鵝絨打造帥氣女性;Moschino 大玩品牌包裝,紅拼黃加上 “M” 字袋,開麥當勞一個玩笑;Saint Laurent 充滿反叛精神;Valentino 以紅調強調品牌基因;Prada 和 Roberto Cavalli 同樣在外套上花心思,前者用羊毛,後者是皮草,各師各法,卻不失奢華感覺。
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Moschino── Autumn / Winter 2014 Fashion Week
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Prada── Autumn / Winter 2014 Fashion Week
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Saint Laurent── Autumn / Winter 2014 Fashion Week
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Valentino── Autumn / Winter 2014 Fashion Week
5 Fur Cape
時裝舞台上不乏手工和質地上乘的皮草作品,但穿上一整件的皮草大褸,看上去笨重又成熟,所以都是看的多,買的機會近乎零。Marni 設計師 Consuelo Castiglioni 今季將皮草與運動風融入,將皮毛局部飾於肩膊,或是製成彈性披肩款套於肩膊和胸前,加上出色的 color blocking 技巧,一反以往對皮草的老套看法,”less is more” 正好代表 Marni 這出色新作。
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Marni── Autumn / Winter 2014 Fashion Week
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Marni── Autumn / Winter 2014 Fashion Week
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Marni── Autumn / Winter 2014 Fashion Week
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Marni── Autumn / Winter 2014 Fashion Week
6 Stir up Leggings & Chucky Sweater
櫃底的踏腳褲終於可以重見天日。八十年代的產物重現在 2014 年 Stella McCartney 的秋冬季天橋上,配上皮革厚底鞋,竟然有着異常 modern 的效果。上身的 Chunky Sweater 配上以拉鏈、彩繩等製作的 embroidery,同樣惹人喜愛。讓人幾乎想 head to toe 搬回家的作品,近年實在沒多少個了。
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Stella McCarney── Autumn / Winter 2014 Fashion Week
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Stella McCarney── Autumn / Winter 2014 Fashion Week
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Stella McCarney── Autumn / Winter 2014 Fashion Week
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Stella McCarney── Autumn / Winter 2014 Fashion Week
7 Heavy Metal
紐約設計師 JeremyScott 擔任 Moschino 創作總監後的首個系列,貫徹他的浮誇和玩樂精神,將包裝紙印上服裝,手袋則變成上衣;更為性感裝束加上大型金屬頸鏈,分別飾上鎖扣、和平的標記和珍珠……造型比往日玩味、跳脫和多了一份街頭味道。
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Moschino── Autumn / Winter 2014 Fashion Week
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Moschino── Autumn / Winter 2014 Fashion Week
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Moschino── Autumn / Winter 2014 Fashion Week
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Moschino── Autumn / Winter 2014 Fashion Week
8 Patch the Impossible
Sacai 的拼湊技巧一向了得,雖還未走上一線品牌,但憑着創意和令人驚喜的拼搭功夫,品牌的名字也是無人不曉。今季 Chitose Abe 進一步挑戰界線,利用時裝人極之抗拒的羽絨為藍本,再加入羊毛、皮草和皮革進行重組,為高級時裝注入功能性,更成為大家夢寐以求得到的作品。
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Sacai── Autumn / Winter 2014 Fashion Week
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Sacai── Autumn / Winter 2014 Fashion Week
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Sacai── Autumn / Winter 2014 Fashion Week
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Sacai── Autumn / Winter 2014 Fashion Week
9 Effortless Embroidery
刺繡和花卉元素從不離開 Valentino 的浪漫基因之中,今季品牌進一步加大晚裝系列,呈現品牌引以自豪的美學與工藝。在羊毛飾帽斗篷和連身裙飾繡上數十隻蝴蝶,每隻都有獨特的色調和形態,栩栩如生;晚裝裙用上薄紗製成,有的在裙尾飾上大量的刺繡花卉、有的是整件佈滿蝴蝶,也有大型玫瑰花,模特兒搖身一變成為花仙子,與大自然合二為一;看着工藝如此精緻又漂亮的晚裝,誰不想立即擁有?
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Valentino── Autumn / Winter 2014 Fashion Week
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Valentino── Autumn / Winter 2014 Fashion Week
10 Suit Play
CÉLINE 主帥 Phoebe Philo 說過喜歡將女性換上男裝,強調女性的獨立自信美;女性的西裝造型從未離開過時裝主流,2014 年秋冬,各大設計師再把男裝披上模特兒身上,用比以往更帥氣的方法詮釋女性美。一向走極簡設計的 Jil Sander,用上筆挺的羊毛製成企領西裝外套,配窄管褲和厚底鞋,展現低調時尚;Maison Martin Margiela 刻意收緊腰部,為中性西裝展現女人味;Saint Laurent 則以恤衫配V領閃片上衣,飾以大型 bowtie 和長身西裝褸,嚴肅卻是玩味。Gucci 和 Kenzo 全副武裝上陣,前者玩 tone-on-tone 修身西裝,外搭羊毛外套;後者將面料換上夾棉,再穿上大翻領長褸,帥氣十足。
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Saint Laurent── Autumn / Winter 2014 Fashion Week
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Kenzo── Autumn / Winter 2014 Fashion Week
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Gucci── Autumn / Winter 2014 Fashion Week
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